Your cat backs up to an object with its tail lifted vertically and sprays a fine mist of urine. What is happening and how do you prevent it?
Spraying is not a litter box problem, but is instead an important part of nonverbal communication among cats to establish and define boundaries. Cats spray either to mark territory or to express unhappiness about changes going on around them. Cats mark their territory in several different ways: by scratching, rubbing against an object or spraying.
Urine marking (spraying) is different from a house-training problem. The cat backs up to an object, points its tail straight up in the air and sprays a nasty, smelly shot of urine. Both males and females spray, though most often a male cat is the offender. There are several approaches to solving this problem, and you may have to try them all before finding what works best for your cat.
If your cat is not spayed or neutered, get it done immediately. Sexual excitement often triggers marking behavior. A passing cat outside is enough to start it. Altering by six months of age prevents the habit from developing. An unneutered male or a female in heat can be especially obnoxious by howling, trying to get outside and spraying the door because of frustration. Spayed or neutered cats can still spray, although they typically do not.
Changes of any kind in your cat's environment can also trigger a bout of spraying as they express their frustration, confusion and stress.
Cats are very sensitive and don't have a lot of ways to tell you about their unhappiness.
Corners of vertical objects are a cat's favorite. Your cat will choose a chair or table leg, a wall, the edge of a door and just about any other thing they can back up to and get a good aim.
If you catch your cat in the act of spraying, try distraction with toys or attention. Clean sprayed areas and treat with a pet stain and odor remover. Do not use ammonia or bleach because the odor is similar to urine and may actually encourage your cat to spray on the same spot again. Try some of the following products to clean and deodorize.
Product Type | How It Works | Where It Works |
---|---|---|
Product Type Carpet shampoo | How It Works Detergent cleaning action. | Where It Works On carpets, but only when the stain is fresh. |
Product Type Dry powders | How It Works Uses super absorbency to remove stains and odors. | Where It Works Upholstery, wood, linoleum, concrete. Not as effective with carpets. |
Product Type Mineral rock products | How It Works Absorbs stain and odor molecules by exchanging electrically charged particles. | Where It Works Any smooth surface. Not as effective with carpets. |
Product Type Enzymal products | How It Works Uses enzymes to break down the odor-causing compounds. | Where It Works Carpets, concrete, wood, linoleum, upholstery. |
Product Type Enzyme/bacteria kits | How It Works Uses enzymes to break down odor-causing compounds and then bacteria to "eat" them. | Where It Works Carpets, upholstery, concrete, wood, linoleum. |
To discourage repeat spraying, apply a pet repellent and cover the spot with aluminum foil. Cats are very annoyed by the sound of urine hitting foil and usually will leave it alone.
Sometimes confining your pet to a private room for a few days will break the cycle of spraying and provide a chance for them to get over whatever is bothering them.
Medical intervention is often needed to cure spraying. Your veterinarian may prescribe hormones or a mild tranquilizer. There are products available that may help relieve stress and sometimes help to cure furniture scratching too. Spray the spot, not the cat.
Consider a consultation with a behavior specialist in your home. An expert can assess your situation unemotionally and may suggest some practical solutions you have not thought of. Contact your veterinarian, local veterinary specialty hospital or university for a referral.
Sponsored
Two Easy Ways to Start Earning Rewards!
Earn 2X Pals Rewards points at Petco
when you use Petco Pay!