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Planted Tank

Planted Tank Set Up Guide and Care Sheet

Developed with and approved by a qualified veterinarian.

planted aquarium

Table of Contents

 

Overview

Freshwater tanks with live plants can be excellent additions to your home, bringing a touch of nature indoors. There are many varieties of beginner-friendly plants available at your local Petco Pet Care Center to build your planted aquatic environment and supplements to help keep your plants and aquatic life happy and healthy.

Benefits of live plants

Live plants are a self-replenishing, natural food source. They absorb and utilize the nutrients, carbon dioxide (Co2) and ammonia (NH3) generated by your fish while providing them with oxygen (O2). The improved water quality lessens stress and potential health issues. The plants compete with algae for nutrients, thus naturally reducing the amount of algae in a tank. They also don’t need removal and cleaning like plastic plants, and they provide fish with a softer hiding place, helping prevent scratches and torn fins.

Supplies shopping list

Choosing your aquarium

Tank size

Planted aquariums can vary in size, but it is recommended to provide the largest tank your space and budget allow, as water conditions can change rapidly in smaller water volumes.

Location

Choosing the best location for your planted aquarium will set you up for success. Place the tank away from direct sunlight, windows, outside doors, heat vents and air conditioners. Rapid changes in temperature are extremely stressful for fish, plants and invertebrates. Direct sunlight can cause excess algae and green water.

Water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon. When you factor in the weight of your substrate, tank, equipment, décor and water, a 20-gallon aquarium will weigh over 160 pounds. Ensure your floor will support this weight.

Aquarium stands should also be considered. Many home furniture items are not made to support this weight and could possibly deteriorate if splashed with water. Aquarium stands come in several different varieties, including some with cabinets and shelves to store your supplies.

Some rental agreements limit the size of aquariums allowed. Always place your aquarium in a room where you spend large amounts of time. Check for nearby electrical outlets, as most tanks will need at least three sockets, depending on the equipment.

Setting up your aquarium

Start by rinsing out the aquarium with warm water to get rid of any dust or debris inside.

Get your stand into place, making sure it’s level; adjust if needed. If you don’t have access to a carpenter’s level, place the tank on the stand and fill with 1–2 inches of water. Check to see that the water is an even distance from the top of the stand on all four sides; an unbalanced aquarium can be extremely hazardous. Placing a tank on an uneven or tilted surface increases the risk that the tank will tip over, crack or leak. A proper stand designed for an aquarium is important; using anything other than a manufactured tank stand may void your tank’s warranty.

Make sure there is enough space between the wall and the back of the aquarium to adequately fit filters and cords and allow easy access for maintenance.

If using an aquarium background, affix your background to the tank prior to filling with water and placing the aquarium against the wall.

Fill the tank approximately 1/3 full. Carefully dry off the bottom edge of the tank and stand. Now check for leaks. Look for water beading up on the bottom edge or running down the sides of the stand. If the tank leaks, empty it and return it to the store for a replacement. You can attempt to fix it, but repairing a leaky tank is difficult, with no guarantee of success.

Install the filter according to the manufacturer’s directions. Do not plug your filter in at this time.

Substrate

If you are using gravel or sand, rinse your substrate with tap water before placing into the aquarium to remove any dust. A kitchen colander works well for this step, but be sure to disinfect it before using it for food preparation. If you are using Eco-Complete plant substrate, do not rinse. Place the substrate in the aquarium, creating an even layer across the bottom, then add any decorations. You can jump-start the cycling process by using a commercial nitrifying bacteria additive or 1–2 cupful’s of substrate from an existing aquarium—the existing substrate contains beneficial bacteria.

Plants

Add in your live plants. Ensure any potted plants are gently and carefully removed from their pots before being placed in the tank. Removing the plant from the pot allows its roots to spread out and absorb nutrients and minerals from the substrate.

If no leaks have been noted, finish filling the aquarium the rest of the way with water. Use tap water conditioner to treat the water before adding to the tank. To protect the décor and aquascaping, as well as to prevent splashing, place a small saucer or bowl into the tank and pour the water directly onto that. Check the tank for leaks.

Heater and thermometer

Place the heater into the tank, but do not plug it in yet. The best place for the heater depends on the type of heater. Non-submersible clip-on heaters that must hang vertically in the tank should be placed as close to the outflow of the filter as possible. Submersible heaters should be placed as close as possible to the intake of the filter. This allows the heated water to be better dispersed throughout the tank. Recheck the aquarium for leaks. Wait at least 20 minutes to plug in the heater; this allows the internal thermometer to adjust to the water temperature and helps ensure the heater doesn’t overheat. Follow the instructions included with the heater and adjust your tank to the appropriate temperature (usually between 72 and 82°F).

Install the thermometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The thermometer should be on the opposite end of the tank from the heater in a position that is easy to check.

Hood and light

Place the hood and light (if applicable) onto the tank, then plug them in. Make sure cords running from the tank touch the ground before looping back up to the plug. This is called a “drip loop” and prevents water from running down the cord into your electrical socket. You may find that the tank’s water level drops slightly when the filter starts. Add as much dechlorinated water as necessary to bring the water to the correct level.

Stabilizing period

Phase one of your tank setup is now complete. Wait until the tank has remained stable for at least 24–48 hours before adding any fish. This allows the atmospheric gases in the water to dissipate and allows time for any needed temperature adjustments. The water may be cloudy; wait until this cloudiness dissipates before adding fish.

If the water temperature has remained stable for at least 24–48 hours and the white cloudiness has cleared up, you are now ready to begin the cycling process of your new aquarium.

Additives can help speed up the nitrogen cycle. Please refer to the Nitrogen Cycle Care Sheet for your next steps.

Appropriately sized aquarium

Substrate

Live plants

Aquarium filter

Plant fertilizer

Plant supplements

Ongoing maintenance and care

Water maintenance

Maintaining great water quality with regular water changes and adequate filtration is important to help keep your planted tank healthy.

  • Daily: Check filter, water temperature and other equipment.
  • Weekly: Test water quality at least once a week. Add aquatic plant fertilizer to aid in plant growth and development
  • Weekly to monthly: Change 10–25% of the total volume of water every 2–4 weeks, or as needed; change filter media monthly. Replenish root tabs beneath plants monthly, if utilizing

Cleaning your habitat

CAUTION: Never use soap or any chemicals on any elements of a fish tank. A 50/50 mixture of water and vinegar works very well to clean the exterior of the aquarium and any components needing a refresh. Soap and other chemicals can be harmful to aquatic life.

Tank health / troubleshooting

Issue Causes Suggested Action
Cloudy Water Tank cycling (bacteria bloom), substrate residue, organics and heavy minerals in tap water Perform a 10–25% water change and siphon the substrate, removing residual debris; water clarifier additive may help; reverse osmosis water filter can remove contaminates found in tap water; add nitrifying bacteria additive
Green water Algae bloom, too much light (direct sunlight), excessive nutrients, overfeeding, overstocked aquarium Reduce photo period and block any direct sunlight; increase water change frequency; reduce feeding; ultraviolet filtration can assist with destroying algae cells
pH fluctuations Buildup of organic material and debris, increased levels of CO2 Perform a 10–25% water change; reduce feeding; increase water circulation and surface agitation
Ammonia spike Insufficient nitrifying bacteria, too many fish Perform a 10–25% water change but do not siphon the substrate; reduce feeding, add a nitrifying bacteria additive.

Notes and sources

Ask a Pet Care Center associate about Petco's selection of products available for the care and happiness of your new pet. All products carry a 100% money-back guarantee.

Because all aquatic life are potential carriers of infectious diseases such as atypical mycobacterium and salmonella, always wash your hands before and after handling your aquatic life or habitat contents to help prevent the potential spread of disease.

Pregnant women, children under the age of 5, senior citizens and people with weakened immune systems should contact their physician before purchasing or caring for aquatic life and should consider not having aquatic life as a pet. Go to cdc.gov/healthypets for more information about aquatic life and disease.

The information on this care sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care. If you need additional information, please contact your veterinarian as appropriate.

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