It’s almost a rite of passage for aquarists to discover brown layers coating their newly setup aquarium. Though brown algae aren’t harmful to aquatic life, they can certainly detract from the visual beauty of your aquarium.
Fortunately, brown algae—or diatom algae—are relatively easy to clean and aren’t too difficult to prevent. Diatoms in a new tank are extremely common and natural, but if you notice brown algae in a mature aquarium, it could signal an imbalance.
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Though brown algae certainly look and act like algae, they’re actually made up of single-celled photosynthetic organisms known as diatoms from the class Bacillariophyceae. The thin, brown film you see coating the sides of your aquarium, substrate and aquarium decorations is a phytoplankton colony made up of billions and billions of microscopic diatoms.
These organisms include a heavy, crystalline cell wall that makes them sink to the bottom of an aquarium. They require light to grow and love munching on silica, as well as organic waste in your habitat, such as nitrates and phosphates.
While most aquariums include a small number of diatom algae, they’re usually not noticeable. However, when the environment is just right—or just wrong, from your perspective—the diatoms can multiply rapidly, causing an algae bloom in an aquarium.
Experienced aquarists know it can take weeks for a new habitat to establish a good nitrogen cycle. In those early days, diatoms in new aquariums are extremely common. Without enough good bacteria in the enclosure, diatom algae can run amok, gobbling up excess nutrients and waste. The good news is that once your aquarium establishes itself, plant life and good bacteria should be able to outcompete the brown algae. If your plants need a little extra boost to help fight off algae, browse our CO2 systems and accessories.
Small amounts of diatom algae are hardly noticeable—but if you have a full diatom bloom on your hands, you’ll know it. Look for a brown, mustard or rusty colored film. Brown algae can coat nearly anything in your aquarium, including the aquarium walls, substrate, rocks, décor and even live plants.
If you touch brown algae, it will feel gritty or sandy between your fingers. This comes from the silica diatoms use to build their tough cell walls.
Cyanobacteria can sometimes be mistaken for brown algae. While they look similar, cyanobacteria tend to be red, green or black in color and can easily be peeled off surfaces in sheets or big clumps. Brown algae usually need to be wiped or scrubbed off surfaces.
The good news is that brown algae is not dangerous to your aquatic life. Aquarium residents don’t seem to mind swimming around a tank covered in diatom algae, as silica isn’t uncommon to their natural environment. That said, brown algae can harm your aquarium’s environment, outcompeting plants and damaging sensitive coral.
Even if you clean a brown algae bloom from your aquarium, it could return if you don’t identify and address the root cause of the algae. With that in mind, here are some of the primary ways diatom algae could be getting into your aquarium.
Silicates are a diatom’s favorite food source and the most common cause of diatom blooms. If you have silicates in your aquarium, brown algae will quickly follow. You may inadvertently introduce silicates through the water you use to fill the habitat or by adding rock or sand.
As waste products like uneaten fish food, decaying plants and aquatic life waste break down in your aquarium, they produce nitrates and phosphates. If they are not cleaned and filtered properly, these compounds can build up in your aquarium’s environment. Diatoms feed on nitrates and phosphates, so an excess of either can cause a diatom bloom.
Some believe poor lighting can result in brown algae in an aquarium. This claim hasn’t been proven, but it is clear that diatom algae have no problem surviving in low lighting. Lower lighting may hinder the growth of plants and green algae that typically compete with brown algae, which may be why brown algae tend to appear in dimly lit aquariums.
Cleaning diatom algae from an aquarium isn’t fun, but the crystal-clear views afterward are well worth the effort.
To get rid of algae on the sides of your aquarium, run a scrubbing pad from bottom to top. Each time you reach the top, squeeze out the scrubber into a bucket of clean dechlorinated water. This may seem extra labor-intensive, but you don’t want to scrub the algae from the wall and let it float around the aquarium, where it can reattach and begin spreading again.
The easiest way to clean brown algae from your décor is to take the pieces out of the aquarium and place them in a bleach solution. Use 2–3 tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water and soak them for 10–20 minutes. Rinse them well under running water before adding them back into the habitat. For porous décor items, allow them to soak in a bucket of clean water with a dechlorinating product for 30 minutes to an hour. Then, gently wipe the leaves of your live plants with a sponge—you don’t need to scrub. The algae should come off, and you can let your filter handle the rest.
Diatom algae often sinks to the bottom of your aquarium, where it feeds off waste. If you notice the substrate in your aquarium turning brown, it’s time to get out your gravel vacuum. You can use the siphon to remove larger patches of the algae on the surface of the substrate.
The last thing you want to do is find a fresh coat of brown algae in your aquarium a few days after cleaning it. Here are a few ways to help keep brown algae out of your aquatic habitat for good.
If you have just started a new aquarium, chances are good you’ll see some diatom algae—this is normal. Remember an aquarium usually takes 4–6 weeks to establish sufficient bacteria and a stable nitrogen cycle. Once this cycle occurs, the brown algae in your habitat should disappear independently.
Test your water for temperature, pH, nitrates, nitrite, ammonia, phosphates and silicates. If your tests show an excess of these chemicals, this is likely the cause of your algae bloom.
One of the most common reasons diatom algae can gain a foothold is because the filter is not adequate for the size of your aquarium. An ineffective filter won’t eliminate the organic waste that diatoms love to eat. Ensure your filter is rated for your habitat’s water volume and regularly check to ensure it is clean and functioning efficiently.
Another way to remove excess phosphates and nitrates is to partially change your water regularly. Ideally, you’ll want to change 10–25% of the existing water every 2–4 weeks. Trying new aquarium cleaning supplies is also a great way to help support your tank’s overall health.
Diatoms are poor swimmers and can’t anchor themselves onto surfaces in high-flow areas. Check to make sure the water flows adequately throughout your aquarium, and there aren’t any dead zones of still water. If you need more water flow, try adding a powerhead or other water movement device.
There are many good reasons not to overfeed your aquatic life, but one of them is to avoid a diatom bloom. If your pets cannot eat all the food you provide, that uneaten debris will eventually settle to the bottom of the aquarium, where it will offer diatoms a buffet. Try only to feed your fish what they can eat within 1–2 minutes, then remove any excess food with a net.
Most aquarium dwellers won’t touch brown algae—but a few will eat them with glee. Adding a few of these algivores to your aquarium can help you keep on top of diatom algae issues. Just remember that introducing new pets to your aquarium can create new challenges when it comes to the cleanliness of your habitat.
With that said, some of the best brown algae eaters for freshwater and marine aquariums are:
The tap or well water you use to fill your aquarium may contain silicates, phosphates or nitrates, which diatoms use to grow. Use a reverse osmosis system to filter your water before adding it to your enclosure.
An ultraviolet sterilizer filter can kill free-floating diatoms before they have a chance to attach to a surface and multiply.
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