What to Expect When a Dog Gives Birth

Updated On December 31st, 2000

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Reviewed By Angela Walter, DVM

Awaiting the birth of a litter of pups is an exciting time. Whether you are experienced with the birthing, or whelping, process or this is your first time, there are some things that can help prepare you for the arrival of the tiny bundles of joy.

What Is a Whelping Box?

As the big day is fast approaching, you should gather all of the supplies needed and be ready at least a week before your dog's expected due date.

The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without being so big that the puppies get "lost." For large breed dogs, it is also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor of the whelping box must be level and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies in, but be hinged or have a door so mom can come and go. A safety rail is necessary around the entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the dam lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be set up in a warm, quiet, safe location.

A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away from the heat source. An alternative to a heat lamp is to purchase a whelping box with in-floor radiant heat. These state of the art whelping boxes use temperature controlled water that circulates in the center of the floor. If the pups are too warm, they can move to the outer perimeter away from the in-floor heat source.

Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken outside to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction.

Puppy Birthing Supplies

Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper towels and other garbage.

A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the puppies are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the dam between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next littermate arrives.

A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off puppies. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach. An easy alternative is to use paper towel that can be discarded.

Other supplies to have on hand include hemostats and heavy sewing thread or suture to tie the umbilical cords, blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cords, petroleum jelly to lubricate pups, sterile surgical gloves, and a pediatric bulb syringe to suction the airways.

Predicting the Delivery Time

Average gestation is about 63 days from the date of ovulation, which may be different than the date(s) of breeding(s). Several changes that may be noticeable in the bitch the last week before delivery include a distended, "dropped" abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged nipples, and full mammary glands. Taking her temperature at least twice a day the last 10 days before the delivery date is also helpful. Some bitch's temperatures will drop below 99 F within 24 hours of delivery. This may not be seen in all bitches, but is another indicator. Loss of appetite and nervousness (pacing, panting) alternating with sleep also indicate the time is near.

Preparing Mom

Clipping the long hair from the underside of the abdomen allows the puppies to find the nipples easier. A female dog, or bitch, may shed significantly in preparation for delivery. Trimming the rear quarters helps keep the mess to a minimum. If she is not kept clean, she should receive a bath before delivery and then be kept in the house.

Remove the bitch's collar before whelping to eliminate a possible hazard to the puppies.

Once labor has begun, do not let her outside except on a leash and bring a towel along in case a puppy is born. Bring a flashlight along if it is nighttime. Check the spot after she urinates for signs of mucus, blood, or other discharge.

Stages of Labor in Dogs

Labor and delivery have three stages. In the first stage, the cervix dilates and softens. She may moan, whimper, and pant during labor. Abdominal contractions are not evident in this stage. She may be restless, secretive, and try to hide. This is why the whelping box is in a quiet area in the house. The lights can be dimmed if she is more comfortable. She may shred paper and blankets during this stage also. Stage one may take 12-24 hours. It ends when the first puppy passes into the pelvic canal.

Stage two starts when she begins actively pushing the first puppy out. The first puppy tends to take the longest, as it needs to fully dilate the cervix. Normally, 1-4 strong contractions are necessary to deliver each puppy. She may be very vocal during delivery, and she may stand, lie, or sit with haunches to one side for delivery. She will be more relaxed if those present are relaxed. Some dogs do not want anyone around for the whelping and the pet parent needs to keep their distance, while other bitches may want the pet parent in the whelping box with them.

The amniotic fluid (water bubble) is seen first. The puppy may come head first or rear paws first. Either way is normal. As soon as the puppy is born, the dam should remove the sac from its face. If the bitch does not do so within several seconds, the owner should remove it so the puppy can breathe.

The bitch will start licking the puppy and will not be extremely gentle with the puppy. That is fine, since the puppy needs stimulation to start breathing on his own. He should be crying and starting to move around. Within minutes he may be ready to nurse, although some puppies need a short rest to recover from the stress of delivery before they are ready to nurse. The bitch will crush and tear the umbilical cord about 1-3 inches from the puppy's body depending on size.

If she does not crush and tear the umbilical cord, clamp the cord between 2 hemostats and tear it or cut it. If the umbilical cord bleeds, tie it off with the sewing thread or suture. If you need to pick up the puppy, keep him in a head-down position to allow fluid to drain out of the lungs and nasal passages. Once the puppy is crying loudly and clearly, the lungs are clear.

The third stage of labor is the delivery of the placenta. Each puppy has a placenta and it is usually delivered with the puppy. Keep track of the placentas on the notepad, as she may have two puppies and then 2 placentas. The bitch will usually eat the placenta. After two or three, the owner can remove some of them to prevent her from eating them all. The placenta does offer nourishment to the bitch, but ingesting the placentas may cause diarrhea or vomiting.

She will repeat the second and third stages of labor until all the puppies are born. Some bitches will have 2-3 puppies in 20 minutes and then break for a couple of hours, while others take 2-3 hours per puppy. As long as she is comfortable and not contracting forcefully, monitor closely. If she is contracting forcefully and no puppy is born, call your veterinarian. If it seems too much time has passed or you are worried, call your veterinarian for advice. If x-rays have been done to count the number of fetuses, you will have a better idea when you are done. Do not count on complete accuracy in fetal numbers from the x-ray.

Allow the dam to eat and drink small amounts during labor and delivery if she wishes.

Allow the puppies to nurse between deliveries. After the first puppies have nursed, allow the newcomers a chance to nurse without having to fight off their older littermates. The puppies are only able to absorb the [colostrum](https://www.petcoach.co/article/colostrum-and-passive-immunity/) through their intestines for the first 24 hours of life. After that time, they are no longer able to get any protection from disease from the dam. The bitch should be licking their perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue this for 2-3 weeks.

Dystocia: Difficult Labor and Delivery

Difficulty during labor and delivery is called "dystocia," and there can be multiple causes.

Pet parents of breeds who are prone to dystocias (those with large heads and shoulders such as Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers) should discuss the possibility of a cesarean section with their veterinarian several weeks prior to the due date. Some breeders of these breeds or veterinarians will opt to schedule a c-section.

Keeping Records During the Birthing Process

It is important to keep accurate records during the delivery. Keeping whelping records will help you recognize problems early, and be a way to follow each puppy during their first weeks of life. Be sure to be able to identify each individual puppy, record each pup's time of birth, weight at birth and each day thereafter. By recording this information, you will be able to identify a problem early and to seek veterinary care.

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