She appears to have eggs given her girth. There are also some vertical bars on her side that indicate she may be ready to spawn. If possible, check underneath for a pronounced white dot. This is further proof that she is ready to spawn.
Read MoreHi there! Thanks for using Boop by Petco! There are many possible causes, and for that reason, there are many possible treatment options. It is very important to try identify what the cause is so that therapy can be targeted at that. Possible causes include constipation, overfeeding, trauma to the swim bladder (which may improve on its own), a genetic abnormality, and even an infection. If it is due to constipation, you may notice a bloated/enlarged stomach and perhaps you have noticed that he has not defecated recently. If this is the case, then the treatment of choice is at least initially to fast him for 1-2 days. If it is due to overfeeding, you may notice a similar appearance as with constipation though with normal defecation. The treatment is usually at the beginning at least to fast him for 1-2 days. If it is a genetic abnormality or even permanent trauma, then you can try to keep the water level low so that he can still reach the surface to eat. Good luck! Keeping my fingers crossed that he gets better!
Read MoreHello, and thank you for using Boop by Petco. The most common (and easiest) way to clean a fish tank is with a siphon-style cleaner. Fish tanks should be cleaned in stages, generally replacing 10-15% of the water at a time. There are times where a larger cleaning might be necessary, but removing the fish and changing too much of the water at once can be quite a shock and can be dangerous to the fish, so this should be saved for only extenuating circumstances. Here's a helpful video on using a siphon cleaner: http://video.petco.com/v/18852/how-to-clean-your-aquarium-with-the-aqueon-siphon-vacuum-/ And some more reading you may find interesting on general fish tank cleaning and maintenance: http://www.firsttankguide.net/waterchange.php Hope this helps!
Read MoreHe may be dealing with some swim bladder issues. The swim bladder is what keeps a fish upright and controls buoyancy. Infection, poor water quality or constipation can affect the swim bladder. Perform a water change. Use aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. My choice for conditioners are AmQuel and NovAqua. You can purchase them in most pet stores or fish stores. Bettas are warm water fish and do best between 78 F and 80 F. Anything below 75 F will be stressful. A small tank heater may be necessary to maintain proper temperature. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) per gallon of water in a cup of tank water and gently pour it in. This will act as a general tonic reducing stress, improving gill function and treating minor infection. Change the water daily to maintain quality and dissolve just enough salt to treat the water being replaced. Fast him for 3 days, then offer small bits of cooked, shelled green peas until defecation and swimming are normal. You can soak the bits in some garlic juice to stimulate his appetite and boost the immune system. Transition to a quality pelleted diet and fast for one day each week to maintain GI health.
Read MoreMany kind of fishes would be good but sardines and white fish like codfish would be great. Please carefully removed any fish bone inside. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.
Read MoreYou are welcome! It is preferable that you give the 1,000mg containing 300mg of EPA and DHA per 30 pounds, but you can give a dose range between 20-55mg combined EPA and DHA per pound of body weight. With the Trader Joe's supplement, that's about 29mg per pound of body weight of the combined EPA and DHA so it's within the safe dose range. I'm sorry I wasn't clearer before, and I hope this clears up any confusion :-)
Read MoreIch can only be killed in its free swimming stage. After it feeds off the fish, it drops into the substrate where it forms cysts and multiplies. Then the new ich parasites swim out of the gravel and find new fish hosts and start the cycle all over again. That is why it is important after all white spots have disappeared to continue treatment, you should continue treating for an additional 2 weeks after all symptoms are gone. After the spots disappear off the fish, I would vacuum the gravel to suck up any cysts. If you increase the temperature the life cycle of the ich becomes faster. Snails will be likely killed by the salt so it is best to remove them before treating. Please do not hesitate to contact us again on the forum or by requesting a consultation if you have any more questions or to discuss it any further.
Read MoreKeep her in some clean water between 68 F and 77 F. Perform daily water changes using aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Clean water is the key to treating sick frogs. Aquarium salt is a great general tonic and can treat minor infection. Dissolve 1 tablespoon in 5 gallons of water and use that for water changes. You can add conditioners such as AmQuel and NovAqua as well as some StressCoat. She should begin to improve in a few days. Offer a few pellets daily, but remove them if she doesn't eat to prevent fouling the water.
Read MoreFor small bodied fish (tetras, minnows, guppies, etc) the general "one inch of fish per gallon" rule will likely be fine. For larger bodied fish (goldfish, plecos, Oscars, etc), it should be closer to one inch of fish per 3 gallons of water. Always use the full grown adult size when deciding how many fish to keep. Take into account schooling fish as well which should be kept on groups of at least 5-6 fish.
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